tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88222159801893609282024-02-06T23:39:04.757-08:00ilovetoxicwasteilovetoxicwasteilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-77097445473281155372013-03-23T03:10:00.002-07:002013-03-23T03:10:20.759-07:00Review - AGAT 18k<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1QxjsjNgBeGRDvzySJ1ltPdvQCMWX41jPnPVe5a-C6akdOXKgimTKpLWSGm-pXmtG4Tcveug-4PxlpJ9hAmjwcj2234vu_F65KmVrpuCoU4smTLv-zUnol4DHjJe81zeG3-xcKeDg9o/s1600/IMG_2465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1QxjsjNgBeGRDvzySJ1ltPdvQCMWX41jPnPVe5a-C6akdOXKgimTKpLWSGm-pXmtG4Tcveug-4PxlpJ9hAmjwcj2234vu_F65KmVrpuCoU4smTLv-zUnol4DHjJe81zeG3-xcKeDg9o/s320/IMG_2465.jpg" width="320" /></a>This is a strange little camera. Made in the Soviet Union in the 80's, it's a manual, half-frame, 35mm pocket camera. Despite it's simplicity, it's a lot of fun to play with.<br />
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A lot of it's limitations end up providing noticeable benefits. For example, there's no light meter, so it doesn't need any batteries. It's also very simple mechanically, so it's very small and light. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGr7d4BBsOlJo1Qak0L-sR7dIcAuaAkaSfLP5-NAMgAQtkdl9Py36LAzJUR6goqaH0PYigkfuw9HoVuOZRx-2H1gn_2rQE1K61a-g-El0iDEEhrGLv1UiDqg1xKzuTmZ0A1_3rw1H-K1g/s1600/IMG_2481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGr7d4BBsOlJo1Qak0L-sR7dIcAuaAkaSfLP5-NAMgAQtkdl9Py36LAzJUR6goqaH0PYigkfuw9HoVuOZRx-2H1gn_2rQE1K61a-g-El0iDEEhrGLv1UiDqg1xKzuTmZ0A1_3rw1H-K1g/s200/IMG_2481.jpg" width="200" /></a>Working out how to use it though requires a bit of thinking about, unless you read Russian.<br />
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The trickiest part about the AGAT is loading the film. You have to pull the camera apart into two halves and then carefully load the film can and spool it before putting it back together. Making sure everything stays in place while you re-assemble the camera can take a couple of tries.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg294kCtl0EWF6cYfL5e_oRXPSRz6HAGrFyCMAmpaPJSrI6FHbUScHIYL3veWj68mHKDEgyW0-srmbsg9olv9aiDIfrvBkfTxt0RqvhktHh31C64zYEVTe-Ig2qgNSVvCkgaG8ygqmdeBA/s1600/IMG_2471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg294kCtl0EWF6cYfL5e_oRXPSRz6HAGrFyCMAmpaPJSrI6FHbUScHIYL3veWj68mHKDEgyW0-srmbsg9olv9aiDIfrvBkfTxt0RqvhktHh31C64zYEVTe-Ig2qgNSVvCkgaG8ygqmdeBA/s200/IMG_2471.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcb1KMZ5pB8XpQj0X-zcF7gDurmI9qwNWhsLxahSpWZbc_olFdbdpEdEVZpy3VZ9Um6olHoIUy4o85msHxVUdw9VazazSHSKzf74AsWC7qjuLcWKLxoO9TVhYTkASQpOTe_wBmUD9Ek9I/s1600/IMG_2472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcb1KMZ5pB8XpQj0X-zcF7gDurmI9qwNWhsLxahSpWZbc_olFdbdpEdEVZpy3VZ9Um6olHoIUy4o85msHxVUdw9VazazSHSKzf74AsWC7qjuLcWKLxoO9TVhYTkASQpOTe_wBmUD9Ek9I/s200/IMG_2472.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVU0N-emodrU5PJzM5qBv85ggebUXvPtj01G5HAKHVPF6wujHIPRHzqGaANPeHJFzJuKebkgJFe0wygXDcT2vxRzB9Xo0UoTdWXwHcLs6CliN_NcCWP6t0kCry_Eh8AWNGmJtLfCuQBfg/s1600/IMG_2466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVU0N-emodrU5PJzM5qBv85ggebUXvPtj01G5HAKHVPF6wujHIPRHzqGaANPeHJFzJuKebkgJFe0wygXDcT2vxRzB9Xo0UoTdWXwHcLs6CliN_NcCWP6t0kCry_Eh8AWNGmJtLfCuQBfg/s200/IMG_2466.jpg" width="200" /></a>Taking photos is all very simple, and manual. Firstly set the ISO on the small yellow dial, then select the weather conditions you are shooting under on the top part of the large dial. Then you need to estimate the distance of your subject to the lens and set this on the focussing ring. Then shoot.<br />
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It all sounds very iffy, but it's surprising how well it works.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghq82BgvT2_PCNw6GNtsdvNmazRtn1SAvPgPzA391p1ZgBr7Q8sza9Sp7YqIgO2xTeow8HvFFaP2y6Ur3_hEWx5XtkyMJrXiWpSd9BE34kYTIs6t0E3bEVYrRGfJA1q_SC_eZXrVyFHt8/s1600/IMG_2478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghq82BgvT2_PCNw6GNtsdvNmazRtn1SAvPgPzA391p1ZgBr7Q8sza9Sp7YqIgO2xTeow8HvFFaP2y6Ur3_hEWx5XtkyMJrXiWpSd9BE34kYTIs6t0E3bEVYrRGfJA1q_SC_eZXrVyFHt8/s200/IMG_2478.jpg" width="200" /></a>Once you use if for a while you appreciate how much thought has gone in to it's design. The lens cap not only covers the lens, but all the exposure dials and the shutter release button. The front of the viewfinder is mirrored for self-portraits. The hand strap unscrews allowing you to use a standard thread tripod. And, it's half frame, which means you should get twice as many photos from your roll of film.<br />
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However, the most interesting part about the AGAT is the look of the photos it takes. Everything comes out looking like you were in Eastern Europe in the Cold War. Very cool.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5sQMIfEYhDuOyKL0PN-JCDfsZf5UFXrFidGLlvcrMnsuq13mh5IhDTLZ5Pk7WzO1WAdGvkQ_Ao6uYo14S0nKCgCe4c_jjXTjNYQCMINjmsPYxmnjHB8ixuH5ymKwq-_p0McJKR9m0WQ/s1600/Scan270018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5sQMIfEYhDuOyKL0PN-JCDfsZf5UFXrFidGLlvcrMnsuq13mh5IhDTLZ5Pk7WzO1WAdGvkQ_Ao6uYo14S0nKCgCe4c_jjXTjNYQCMINjmsPYxmnjHB8ixuH5ymKwq-_p0McJKR9m0WQ/s400/Scan270018.jpg" width="305" /></a></div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOH2mp8dAAxcn-yWR31GW6qYOtyIM1PTIvaQT5G-JhpLY11QzhwXuTco_5EWGJTmurZQqtuHklmb9CRdFyvF1iCJGpo51gqWpJNUjPiou5Go70DIteRKBjzzjN4FOuHOdktut1yFIFhjQ/s1600/Scan270039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOH2mp8dAAxcn-yWR31GW6qYOtyIM1PTIvaQT5G-JhpLY11QzhwXuTco_5EWGJTmurZQqtuHklmb9CRdFyvF1iCJGpo51gqWpJNUjPiou5Go70DIteRKBjzzjN4FOuHOdktut1yFIFhjQ/s320/Scan270039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-73340214840003084832013-03-12T14:23:00.000-07:002013-03-12T14:51:52.519-07:00Guide - Develop DISC film at home<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyBW6KCnB_WAD6tyDTrVpoFlxjxCZmfH1cq7484wdy-cgHii7LqnfVSpitku2C4tZU-VEW9i42Mbtzs1vGmJVtMf8WRdk3y7F15WXA5yZnk4Xd8hZNCZBGs3wFmK1ESWAL2_y7N8k_Hs/s1600/disc-photography.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyBW6KCnB_WAD6tyDTrVpoFlxjxCZmfH1cq7484wdy-cgHii7LqnfVSpitku2C4tZU-VEW9i42Mbtzs1vGmJVtMf8WRdk3y7F15WXA5yZnk4Xd8hZNCZBGs3wFmK1ESWAL2_y7N8k_Hs/s400/disc-photography.jpeg" width="285" /></a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_film" target="_blank">Disc film</a> was introduced by Kodak in the early 80's as a replacement for 110 film. There were a lot of promises made at the time regarding the quality and affordability of the format. But whilst the cameras were cheap, I don't remember the film and developing costs being any different. In fact, with just 15 exposures per film it worked out more expensive. It sold because it was different and made a cheap Christmas present.<br />
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The format is totally dead. You can't buy film or get it processed commercially. (I think there is just one place in Australia charging 20 pounds per disc!)<br />
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However it is sometimes possible to pick up expired film on ebay and because the processing is C-41, you can do it at home. <a href="http://ilovetoxicwastephotography.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/guide-develop-colour-film-at-home.html" target="_blank">You can see my guide to this here.</a><br />
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I've successfully developed film which expired in 1993.<br />
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<u>How to develop Disc film</u><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_LlEpdU9CTNl83ub3OJPgjzVZXGrAOec_reumDmjPKWdBcFId1oqWdTfgdxBIfMibEc_RSk1tOBGj6dsLcq5u4wgLf8R_UANEqpYOWvSW3jZ_1p8SxT6y6b6UZOgi_-sXX2yKAdu0WE/s1600/IMG_2402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_LlEpdU9CTNl83ub3OJPgjzVZXGrAOec_reumDmjPKWdBcFId1oqWdTfgdxBIfMibEc_RSk1tOBGj6dsLcq5u4wgLf8R_UANEqpYOWvSW3jZ_1p8SxT6y6b6UZOgi_-sXX2yKAdu0WE/s200/IMG_2402.jpg" width="200" /></a>The film is in a cartridge which also contains a shutter or slide to protect the film from light. This shutter is moved in and out of place by the camera when you load the film. The first step is to get the film out of the cartridge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFNswRZeoG1R55yUHee-KaaHseHqDm6mYBPnZXiuBRdU4dvZOZXzGasSJZRB_m7Nnb7eDVjG4aA-tI8-qZ-bxO3b8wNb1KpsCGVgcUzCmidhHueZXOhhOz39mjOrqaD6Mi2n94dQKBfqw/s1600/IMG_2462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFNswRZeoG1R55yUHee-KaaHseHqDm6mYBPnZXiuBRdU4dvZOZXzGasSJZRB_m7Nnb7eDVjG4aA-tI8-qZ-bxO3b8wNb1KpsCGVgcUzCmidhHueZXOhhOz39mjOrqaD6Mi2n94dQKBfqw/s200/IMG_2462.jpg" width="200" /></a>So in the <b>dark</b>, find for the tapered edge of the cartridge and feel for the corners at the opposite end. If you push these away slightly the cartridge should open easily allowing you to access the film. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBHI8GWWFTH3n4sKfX_y8OMfTqkrvSKLgvlGv1HjwMk-u_nTBi3j6-yJMISPdmzXcksvhQo-aoyw-pTkTwJxiArhBJpdRUo3Ixx0SurNbm9XqfpOmqk2letffgLiWr-a66YBqF4a4yuI/s1600/IMG_2453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBHI8GWWFTH3n4sKfX_y8OMfTqkrvSKLgvlGv1HjwMk-u_nTBi3j6-yJMISPdmzXcksvhQo-aoyw-pTkTwJxiArhBJpdRUo3Ixx0SurNbm9XqfpOmqk2letffgLiWr-a66YBqF4a4yuI/s200/IMG_2453.jpg" width="200" /></a>Handle it by the plastic hub only and drop it into a standard development tank. The negative film is much thicker than normal 35mm film so it will stand up ok without buckling. If you are developing more than one, you can fix them together using a small cable tie through the hole in the hub, just be careful not to scratch the film.</div>
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Then you can seal the tank and develop as normal C-41. Just let the film rattle around and don't bother inverting the tank too much, just swirl it around. After processing you may notice it has a blue finish. this will disappear after a few mins.<br />
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With any luck you will have some pictures!<br />
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Don't be too concerned if the colour of the disc is not as pretty as a lab processed one from the 80's, it will scan digitally just fine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzwenw7wtHOxmG9Elh9WfQz-XMp-XOgBZsUOs4XTMx2b6VSvVDuMi2DguSlRI7VoJnHMQjEtM-lfvTSfVfN4S18S8u27Mt8G9X4ZRzKy80zNcYwME7cXPeIba8VIh0f4bsUEB2YJjhSw/s1600/IMG_2450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzwenw7wtHOxmG9Elh9WfQz-XMp-XOgBZsUOs4XTMx2b6VSvVDuMi2DguSlRI7VoJnHMQjEtM-lfvTSfVfN4S18S8u27Mt8G9X4ZRzKy80zNcYwME7cXPeIba8VIh0f4bsUEB2YJjhSw/s1600/IMG_2450.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-67536297292812033372013-03-12T12:55:00.001-07:002013-03-17T10:46:18.197-07:00Guide - Develop Colour film at home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Developing colour film at home is just as easy as developing black and white film. Whilst it's true that more care is required, most of the steps are the same and you should be able to enjoy good results for a small cost.</div>
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Most colour films require a process called C-41. This process has to be controlled much more carefully than b&w processing. For the kit mentioned here you need to do <b>the whole development at 30degC (+/- 0.5) </b>and time the development step exactly.</div>
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If you've never developed a negative film, you should read my <a href="http://ilovetoxicwastephotography.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/guide-develop-b-film-at-home.html" target="_blank">guide to developing black and white film</a> first because I'll refer to it throughout this guide. Don't feel you have to be experienced at b&w first, by all means jump into doing colour straight away if that's what you're interested in.</div>
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You'll need the following items in addition to what you may already have for the b&w processing</div>
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<li>Tetenal Colortec C-41 developing kit (1lt version)</li>
<li>Chemical containers (see below) </li>
<li>Thermometer which covers 20-40 degC </li>
<li>Bucket</li>
<li>Aquarium heater (as used for tropical fish tanks)</li>
<li>Stopwatch (the one on your phone is fine)</li>
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Maybe budget around 40 pounds for the lot.</div>
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As you'd expect, getting you film out of it's canister and into the developing tank is just the same as before. The only difference is how it's processed. </div>
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There are several C-41 developing kits available, most having five or more steps (often called 'baths'). However the Tetenal one has just four even though it's advertised asa two bath kit. It costs about 17 pounds and will do maybe 16 films.</div>
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<li>step 1 - develop</li>
<li>step 2 - bleach+fix</li>
<li>step 3 - rinse</li>
<li>step 4 - stabilize</li>
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Firstly you need to mix the chemicals. In the box you will find six small bottles which need careful dilution with tap water. <br />
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Like I mentioned in my b&w guide, it's a good idea to buy some cheap cleaning products from Tescos' for the bottles alone. Wash them out really well with lots of hot water, leaving them to stand for a while whilst full. This also makes it easier to get the labels off. You may not get all the smell out, but that's ok. </div>
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For this kit I tried to choose smaller containers which would fit easily in the bucket and narrowed towards the neck of the bottle to minimize the chemicals oxidizing during storage.</div>
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You can divide the six Tetenal bottles into three groups.</div>
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CD - Colour Developer - three bottles<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiTF8bUukA_8VND_JBf6yS9U68erLnk06Q3L-ONAh__uzLuWgiLMu-0_FVMXrSwT5rDRoozuq-y2kz21t-XMiL2UJRwInIenFDn6xXrZlUAukey2K10Fk9MKlL-d1_iGgdyTHXjoXFBdI/s1600/IMG_2439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiTF8bUukA_8VND_JBf6yS9U68erLnk06Q3L-ONAh__uzLuWgiLMu-0_FVMXrSwT5rDRoozuq-y2kz21t-XMiL2UJRwInIenFDn6xXrZlUAukey2K10Fk9MKlL-d1_iGgdyTHXjoXFBdI/s200/IMG_2439.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
BX - Bleach+fiX - two bottles</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jLDAhRwGUYoxKPbWegTHYBIjwggqQtJt5UGPgkw6PcSdYutAShIj9_dzdJ0kG6nC0NQNZQ_C4dMATf9GisbzVx-K0K3A4cxFQnoUXkCLbLnKfNlE71uj-kb40v6GHVoMCnVfvWKHgwg/s1600/IMG_2440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jLDAhRwGUYoxKPbWegTHYBIjwggqQtJt5UGPgkw6PcSdYutAShIj9_dzdJ0kG6nC0NQNZQ_C4dMATf9GisbzVx-K0K3A4cxFQnoUXkCLbLnKfNlE71uj-kb40v6GHVoMCnVfvWKHgwg/s200/IMG_2440.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
STAB - STABilizer - one bottle</div>
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<span style="background-color: yellow; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">REMEMBER - Although not highly toxic, you should avoid contact of the chemicals with your skin. I always wear latex gloves though out the whole process. This will also help keep the smell of the chemicals off your skin, and your finger prints off the film.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7SVC0sTQZMEtpOL-wbRxpPdsPe7u6RT0KNNpLAjXv_Rsjq3xAqqAgz4BDb2-vtn5V2XHwOQiE00GAKyH1Eu-vjm_WB0-ecf9n7iQqlUL2t4nT9QWYJPekX1yqvJH-yz1FjjRhyzaggTs/s1600/IMG_2441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7SVC0sTQZMEtpOL-wbRxpPdsPe7u6RT0KNNpLAjXv_Rsjq3xAqqAgz4BDb2-vtn5V2XHwOQiE00GAKyH1Eu-vjm_WB0-ecf9n7iQqlUL2t4nT9QWYJPekX1yqvJH-yz1FjjRhyzaggTs/s200/IMG_2441.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li>To make the developer solution, add the three CD bottles to 700ml of water</li>
<li>To make the bleach+fix solution, add the two bottles to 600ml of water</li>
<li>To make the stabilizer, add the one bottle to 900ml of water</li>
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Label the separate containers and get them into the bucket with just enough water so that they don't float about. Also place the developing tank, with your colour film inside, into the bucket so that the water covers it. You may need to place something heavy on it to keep it in place.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6wT66n0mdRqmGfkiSAHAXSdgnn24mIJgKukYQmjVNHqxtXsa3vwZ_Of8cB2LE6ScHo7mrQ5e0pwk0lS3v9CMnBDNjne8DnQrAHUDNet-RJ-LTyRu-B57WLSt8IWTOKrfiW1Ql0WaUWE/s1600/IMG_2445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6wT66n0mdRqmGfkiSAHAXSdgnn24mIJgKukYQmjVNHqxtXsa3vwZ_Of8cB2LE6ScHo7mrQ5e0pwk0lS3v9CMnBDNjne8DnQrAHUDNet-RJ-LTyRu-B57WLSt8IWTOKrfiW1Ql0WaUWE/s320/IMG_2445.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used a laundry detergent bottle for a weight</td></tr>
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Place the Aquarium heater into the bucket and set it to 30degC. Leave it all to warm up and come to temperature. You can cheat at this step by using warm water to fill the bucket.</div>
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Use the thermometer to check the temperature, don't trust the setting on the heater. You may find you have to set it a little higher than 30 degC to get the water warm enough. Once you're sure it's all the same temp, you can start. Remember, 29.5degC to 30.5degC is ok.</div>
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<li>Take the developing tank and the developer bottle out of the water. </li>
<li>Add the developer to the tank and start the stopwatch. </li>
<li>Then get the development tank back into the water immediately. </li>
<li>It needs to be in there for 8 minuets. </li>
<li>At two minute intervals, remove the tank and invert it four times and then get it back into the water. </li>
<li>At the end of the 8 mins, <b>pour the developer back into its container!</b> (don't throw it away as it will develop up to 16 films until it's finished) </li>
<li>Add the bleach+fix solution in the same manner, this time leave it in for 6 mins.</li>
<li>Pour the bleach+fix back into its container, again you can reuse it.</li>
<li>Rinse the tank with several flushes of water. I follow the same procedure as for b&w development.</li>
<li>Add the stabliser solution for 1min, and again keep it for future re-use.</li>
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That's it. </div>
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Don't be tempted to wash the stablizer solution out, it has a 'rinse-aid' type agent in it to help remove the water from the film. You can now remove the film and hang it to dry.</div>
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Hopefully you have some images you can scan. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3SmCGxSOsS682CUnwh7vzyohwoMSOt61fUcA0FZp9MRsb8fL2lbTadrtxBSDxhyphenhyphenqzQ_K_w1c52uGjR5u5ii-oFwEwoNne9q0glOLao_P4V32_jDVMqJ9OC9mVcR0Sc4VLL5KZxtLNCM/s1600/Scan270020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3SmCGxSOsS682CUnwh7vzyohwoMSOt61fUcA0FZp9MRsb8fL2lbTadrtxBSDxhyphenhyphenqzQ_K_w1c52uGjR5u5ii-oFwEwoNne9q0glOLao_P4V32_jDVMqJ9OC9mVcR0Sc4VLL5KZxtLNCM/s400/Scan270020.jpg" height="400" width="378" /></a></div>
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<b>Common problems</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6PUNj3tKUIQAptTS7s5IoSZuCTxyYZVAtVQqFdDIgDok5TXtr3kODb4f_PDTiaVf0lyaK4XiNywHDJdxylY02vxZfCxgzhtC5q4x8YEleUhdiGEGFOr0SMT2YW909mgHpS1b2DbpUw2g/s1600/Scan270042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6PUNj3tKUIQAptTS7s5IoSZuCTxyYZVAtVQqFdDIgDok5TXtr3kODb4f_PDTiaVf0lyaK4XiNywHDJdxylY02vxZfCxgzhtC5q4x8YEleUhdiGEGFOr0SMT2YW909mgHpS1b2DbpUw2g/s1600/Scan270042.jpg" height="188" width="320" /></a><br />
<u>Rainbow lines on image</u></div>
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This is almost certainly left over stablilser which has dried on the film. You can fix this easily by washing and drying the film again. Remember to wipe the film down before you leave it to dry.</div>
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ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-52453413513189895302013-03-10T14:49:00.001-07:002013-03-10T14:50:50.072-07:00Guide - Expired filmHere is the film I used for playing with these cameras and processing the negatives. I'll add to it as I use more. In date films are included for comparison.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm1UkhmNlYIxSQGmpKS1d_11Vda4qpyBHWBAWg3GPlFgCUm-va3PZz5DWZZQHgyfT-WJ3UEfon05JDnHSeb5VVgZ0OYSTFcHiapO6JJqMLlZe69pzVFZ0v4gsB7oMOl3sTRtfcRGsvxH0/s1600/Scan240003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm1UkhmNlYIxSQGmpKS1d_11Vda4qpyBHWBAWg3GPlFgCUm-va3PZz5DWZZQHgyfT-WJ3UEfon05JDnHSeb5VVgZ0OYSTFcHiapO6JJqMLlZe69pzVFZ0v4gsB7oMOl3sTRtfcRGsvxH0/s1600/Scan240003.jpg" /></a><b></b><br />
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<b>Ilford FP4 Plus - ISO125 - Expiry date May 2017</b><br />
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Good black and white film which is easy to use and will still give you results if you get your exposure or development a little bit wrong. I think it gives great contrast and some of my photos have a ghostly glow to them which I struggle to re-create digitally.<br />
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Easy to develop in standard Ilford B&W chemicals<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxK5TZm411RtdTC6wvUhEMDjbVAGvqSxtMDKhz30xN8l4uSAGLRj5j8t02DvhzaSTuWKtl1rY4lAx4ELZJxR8QRF2WDzeEuoXWcsX3DTHlGvjNJl1emb1aQzkYHEgwfMtCERa3_WicJSE/s1600/Scan25_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxK5TZm411RtdTC6wvUhEMDjbVAGvqSxtMDKhz30xN8l4uSAGLRj5j8t02DvhzaSTuWKtl1rY4lAx4ELZJxR8QRF2WDzeEuoXWcsX3DTHlGvjNJl1emb1aQzkYHEgwfMtCERa3_WicJSE/s320/Scan25_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warehouse in Bolton <br />
- Taken using Canon EOS 50e with Ilford PF4 Plus</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBOO3i0WqXZ4mkVzrlJiZ3gfFhigKGbYZHwLX0eEyuIbJX7IT0RppZ-f1JhyzEvUSFHzVagGBWhoPJz8wLpb7dhr6Js9xB21e0Szmuu51VhX9w8HYMketHfFKiSG5QCmxmtFriMa_jv00/s1600/Scan270043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBOO3i0WqXZ4mkVzrlJiZ3gfFhigKGbYZHwLX0eEyuIbJX7IT0RppZ-f1JhyzEvUSFHzVagGBWhoPJz8wLpb7dhr6Js9xB21e0Szmuu51VhX9w8HYMketHfFKiSG5QCmxmtFriMa_jv00/s1600/Scan270043.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>Kodak Gold - ISO200 - Expiry date Feb 2014</b></div>
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Gives good results if used carefully. The colours are very faithful but you notice that it's not as flexible as the Ilford FP4 when you scan the images in, so you need to be more careful with exposure and development.</div>
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Fairly straight forward to develop in Tetenal Colortec C-41</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriUNiPcsP5S2051E_636s8Rn52j8_gyXl7ivPZQT1q-OmibZ2rx6TJ1meN3sPB7ztJvlVQZ34_MvKcrY-Tj54BrFo7cGzgGCwZeK2k387ArErL9AqZl0hOaFMwmyhtv-dqY-vvCl-GtA/s1600/Scan270035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriUNiPcsP5S2051E_636s8Rn52j8_gyXl7ivPZQT1q-OmibZ2rx6TJ1meN3sPB7ztJvlVQZ34_MvKcrY-Tj54BrFo7cGzgGCwZeK2k387ArErL9AqZl0hOaFMwmyhtv-dqY-vvCl-GtA/s320/Scan270035.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olympic postbox in Manchester<br />
- Taken with Blackbird Fly</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIWFQSNueFQzYFZM62MOoVGnx_LCIhF705HYNef5Or8DKmC4IyTbOf50cRC_5hi3ojC9gMjBYbuxsro7uNm4jjwyzUWLJwgSBlN-6137OLF1yzEZBiHmmxoP1-qn4xRjY-ZW4Ui8el9s/s1600/Scan270043_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIWFQSNueFQzYFZM62MOoVGnx_LCIhF705HYNef5Or8DKmC4IyTbOf50cRC_5hi3ojC9gMjBYbuxsro7uNm4jjwyzUWLJwgSBlN-6137OLF1yzEZBiHmmxoP1-qn4xRjY-ZW4Ui8el9s/s1600/Scan270043_2.jpg" /></a></div>
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Fujicolor HR Disc - ISO - Expiry date Jan 1993</div>
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For such old stock it hold up well and gives good results. As with all Disc film the results have a lot of grain and the images are generally poor. Develops ok in Tenenal Colortec C-41 following the standard procedure, but my first film had a blue finish which disappeared after an hour. The developed negative disc doesn't look as good as an original lab processed one from the 80's, but the results scan digitally the same.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2KpobDxzt6wlkqje1NudWFh1yuTnPdpOwAaal4WIYkjb5-Jp80kMIvbiulAKmWfJqGImojANLP5Gy-kGe7vGWbgcCfzC2nwExzNQjAOqKgfHmdiQp6tMifN8ydHoSCGegBdEYLdKnZs/s1600/Brandon+on+disc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2KpobDxzt6wlkqje1NudWFh1yuTnPdpOwAaal4WIYkjb5-Jp80kMIvbiulAKmWfJqGImojANLP5Gy-kGe7vGWbgcCfzC2nwExzNQjAOqKgfHmdiQp6tMifN8ydHoSCGegBdEYLdKnZs/s320/Brandon+on+disc.jpg" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brandon at home<br />
- Taken with Boots 415 Disc camera</td></tr>
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<br />ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-7626233539398418122013-03-10T10:10:00.002-07:002013-03-12T13:02:03.121-07:00Review - Boots Disc 415 Camera<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7HS1Sq6cfAPAcX5qZdoVmoL27mCxZSmx0NWzTsdhIHj4LAuOq2n-gkCFa6tyhEFoKBJFdhDToD4Ez-OJcPIeMdv8_8IuWf_MGuzc_wx9_v4y0gbO_XVtlJrs4c-Ol1gfprVJBhOqX7M/s1600/IMG_2390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7HS1Sq6cfAPAcX5qZdoVmoL27mCxZSmx0NWzTsdhIHj4LAuOq2n-gkCFa6tyhEFoKBJFdhDToD4Ez-OJcPIeMdv8_8IuWf_MGuzc_wx9_v4y0gbO_XVtlJrs4c-Ol1gfprVJBhOqX7M/s320/IMG_2390.jpg" width="320" /></a>Disc film was an idea from Kodak in the 80's. The idea was to make cameras smaller and easier to use by using a disc shaped film rather than a roll. I suspect the real reason was to dramatically reduce manufacturing and film processing costs, because they were no smaller than 110 cameras and no cheaper to buy and use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmG4i6wNCTPiTgHgiscXhjy70kzZy3FPDJIr3AGQd6hKuTXIzukheQKP9HZCvOZsBTKQMSyL4HZFL9QBPpgANu0JGPD57O9iUym3JnrsH_dTwTrYMs1KvDzhlTMxzEZj9pz-M8Eb0MFI/s1600/IMG_2394.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmG4i6wNCTPiTgHgiscXhjy70kzZy3FPDJIr3AGQd6hKuTXIzukheQKP9HZCvOZsBTKQMSyL4HZFL9QBPpgANu0JGPD57O9iUym3JnrsH_dTwTrYMs1KvDzhlTMxzEZj9pz-M8Eb0MFI/s200/IMG_2394.jpg" width="200" /></a>I was given a model identical to this by Myrrah for Christmas when I was eleven. I did use it quite a lot, but the photos were awful. Technically the film has to have been the worst ever manufactured for consumers and the format was short lived. My Boots 415 soon followed my old 110 to the bottom of the toy box, never to be seen again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZAGXeVSQeefY_R4jsDEjN8vIy2eZQS2gmsJFrXQESYhXCkgcEi22f3pWTFD2NJMr7oLx37S1EWN2Kb5pI9wuWf6Y7trJ1wvtWhFIQykxsYfwtHO0NQNAXjX3JKaomVh2e3i99__gE6w/s1600/IMG_2408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZAGXeVSQeefY_R4jsDEjN8vIy2eZQS2gmsJFrXQESYhXCkgcEi22f3pWTFD2NJMr7oLx37S1EWN2Kb5pI9wuWf6Y7trJ1wvtWhFIQykxsYfwtHO0NQNAXjX3JKaomVh2e3i99__gE6w/s320/IMG_2408.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Like all Disc cameras there are no settings, just load the film cartridge, close the lid and shoot. An indicator on the disc shows you which frame you are on. You can actually open the camera and remove the cartridge mid way through a disc and it's ok. This is because the cartridge contains it's own shutter to cover the film which is put in place when you pull the lever on the camera. The model in the photos was a couple of pounds off ebay and it froze up a few times, but it still worked after re-inserting the cartridge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLB0aL8AGHJtDZw0DZHYKbTVF7WLVSU1XD1vxEHL21qsIhg1WBdWDnMTdpD9i7QWKz2HopzQSoPAIgc-o_BtSFRjftWcOHgD2BBq3zHyfVe_mj18oQTR6iA6A6xLJNC3W49evEqBrNHlg/s1600/IMG_2403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLB0aL8AGHJtDZw0DZHYKbTVF7WLVSU1XD1vxEHL21qsIhg1WBdWDnMTdpD9i7QWKz2HopzQSoPAIgc-o_BtSFRjftWcOHgD2BBq3zHyfVe_mj18oQTR6iA6A6xLJNC3W49evEqBrNHlg/s200/IMG_2403.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
No lab will process Disc film for you, so you have to do it yourself. Thankfully it's just C-41 so <a href="http://ilovetoxicwastephotography.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/guide-develop-colour-film-at-home.html" target="_blank">you can do this at home</a>. More difficult is buying the film. It's been out of production for many years and the Disc used below expired in 1993. Still worked though.<br />
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<b>Worst feature</b> - Very small negative frame giving very poor photos.<br />
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<b>Best feature</b> - Some of the number graphics on the negative disc look cool.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjTxFccwhA_8197tifZj09EWppqUawOSgalPUtJHyDYhcDCCGjvPshH4UwDHFcLYT3yIAx_Qb7uTKpxffZhkildi4746egTyYioesmnOJFO2aFoHlMsi079l8ygxEz_dzITPgzgkP92eM/s1600/Bus+stop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjTxFccwhA_8197tifZj09EWppqUawOSgalPUtJHyDYhcDCCGjvPshH4UwDHFcLYT3yIAx_Qb7uTKpxffZhkildi4746egTyYioesmnOJFO2aFoHlMsi079l8ygxEz_dzITPgzgkP92eM/s400/Bus+stop.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brandon and Callum in Manchester - <br />
Taken on a Boots Disc 415 with Fujicolour HR. Mar 2013</td></tr>
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<br />ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-48040937528132197942013-03-09T18:41:00.002-08:002013-03-10T09:45:43.002-07:00Review - Blackbird Fly 35mm TLR<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTLVPDAIweSof-M18D-Zyafu_imnHuq8UOBzTUONR1AStGH20zuP6wzyDPLW5Bu7A7PYpx2miacZT9tqvypVaMOLdZLOAyQrJvEe_0cHWFh20csVEGBgW4TVu7DeJG6Eqrh0TCCSg3QA4/s1600/IMG_2366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTLVPDAIweSof-M18D-Zyafu_imnHuq8UOBzTUONR1AStGH20zuP6wzyDPLW5Bu7A7PYpx2miacZT9tqvypVaMOLdZLOAyQrJvEe_0cHWFh20csVEGBgW4TVu7DeJG6Eqrh0TCCSg3QA4/s320/IMG_2366.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
The <a href="http://blackbirdflycamera.com/" target="_blank">Blackbird Fly</a> is a Twin Lens Reflex (TLR) camera which takes 35mm film. It's very much a plastic toy like camera to play around with, and if you approach it with that in mind, you'll be ok.<br />
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They are quite expensive new (70 pounds) so it's worth waiting until one comes up on ebay, I think I paid around 20 pounds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPAuUsRG2NE9iazJmyhqYNSV-uVqnuqSlEUfhLUmouigAvy6Syxe-2vkOqJvxDy-YFA8k59G4BSId4cL_gWoJuDB21KWCHCLqZ_rFZFQeujRdvw0Bz7ShtLtlAvkVUINxjeXlXzJUNBE/s1600/IMG_2374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPAuUsRG2NE9iazJmyhqYNSV-uVqnuqSlEUfhLUmouigAvy6Syxe-2vkOqJvxDy-YFA8k59G4BSId4cL_gWoJuDB21KWCHCLqZ_rFZFQeujRdvw0Bz7ShtLtlAvkVUINxjeXlXzJUNBE/s200/IMG_2374.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
TLRs use two lenses, one for exposing the film and another for the viewfinder. The viewfinder is of the waist level type and has some squares for setting up the shot depending on the frame you are using. Although once you're used to the field of view, you'll find you have the same amount of success if you just point the camera and click the shutter.<br />
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Settings are basic. Very basic. </div>
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<li>No ISO setting </li>
<li>two aperture settings (cloud and sun), </li>
<li>two shutter speed settings (1/125sec and bulb)</li>
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So, like a lot of cameras of this type, either bright sunlight or faster film will help you out. </div>
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Also, the focussing is all guess work. There are markings on the top dial in meters, just guess the distance to the object.</div>
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Loading film is a little tricky, you have to place the roll in a compartment and then spool it. Once you close the back and start shooting the film advance knob and rewind crank feel very flimsy and plasticky, you definitely need to be careful not to force anything if it feels a little stuck. Rewinding a film can need a lot of care to be sure you are doing it right.</div>
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The camera comes with a couple of inserts which go between the lens and the film. These allow you to frame the image onto the negative. Because I picked mine up cheap, they were missing. In this case the camera exposes the whole film, including the sprockets, which gives a nice look. Anyway, you can always crop down your exposed image digitally anyway.</div>
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One of the things I like the most is the viewfinder. It's much easier to get candid shots whilst out and about if it's not obvious you're taking a picture, however the bright yellow case can sometimes ruin this.</div>
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<b>Worst feature</b> - Rewinding a film can leave you uncertain it's working.</div>
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<b>Best feature</b> - Exposing the sprockets gives the photos a cool look.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriUNiPcsP5S2051E_636s8Rn52j8_gyXl7ivPZQT1q-OmibZ2rx6TJ1meN3sPB7ztJvlVQZ34_MvKcrY-Tj54BrFo7cGzgGCwZeK2k387ArErL9AqZl0hOaFMwmyhtv-dqY-vvCl-GtA/s1600/Scan270035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriUNiPcsP5S2051E_636s8Rn52j8_gyXl7ivPZQT1q-OmibZ2rx6TJ1meN3sPB7ztJvlVQZ34_MvKcrY-Tj54BrFo7cGzgGCwZeK2k387ArErL9AqZl0hOaFMwmyhtv-dqY-vvCl-GtA/s320/Scan270035.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olympic Postbox - Taken using Blackbird Fly on Kodak Gold. Feb 2013</td></tr>
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ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-33813712076886335362013-03-07T07:44:00.001-08:002013-03-10T09:45:32.707-07:00Review - Canon EOS 50e 35mm SLR<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIe4H5IWPJp_7qKaoFMK3AGAqmwzb9G_kOsHDQcUU2eCZ_ZcHjFjC3YONS9axrszECOivWkkhQz-BM4BUkEoeYRp1pdp3fl23mW_WPWV7EnZfGHqjOpjkfhEXXlLEUbANV4peyrtKrYjo/s1600/IMG_2342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIe4H5IWPJp_7qKaoFMK3AGAqmwzb9G_kOsHDQcUU2eCZ_ZcHjFjC3YONS9axrszECOivWkkhQz-BM4BUkEoeYRp1pdp3fl23mW_WPWV7EnZfGHqjOpjkfhEXXlLEUbANV4peyrtKrYjo/s320/IMG_2342.JPG" width="320" /></a>If you have a Canon EOS DSLR then it makes perfect sense to pick up a 35mm SLR to play around with. <br />
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Most of your lenses will work (more about that later) and you'll find it familiar to use. The 50e is really cheap at the moment, you should be able to get one for less than 15 pounds easily. That's 400 pounds less than it was in 1996! (It was called the Elan IIe in the US)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1agR_sYDFIZ9MSwgr-z_oWISSx1BIRhVVoyYYfUj05eeCXeLqdJsztO2jaeQEiP9vUHEj-t_LjPLP0zb28L0b4aUOKZO4q2TcQBLAvTTzoCoB2F-rDIwkTvruYXAF3CqkYjZ0f5GkeVk/s1600/IMG_2346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1agR_sYDFIZ9MSwgr-z_oWISSx1BIRhVVoyYYfUj05eeCXeLqdJsztO2jaeQEiP9vUHEj-t_LjPLP0zb28L0b4aUOKZO4q2TcQBLAvTTzoCoB2F-rDIwkTvruYXAF3CqkYjZ0f5GkeVk/s200/IMG_2346.JPG" width="200" /></a>The 50e is has all the automatic and manual modes that the DSLRs have today and they work in exactly the same way. All the symbols are the same too, so as long as you know Canon, you'll find it really easy. <br />
If you don't know the Canon cameras, then it's easy to pick up a manual for the 50e online (see <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_eos_elan_ii_iie/canon_eos_elan_ii_iie.htm" target="_blank">here</a>). <br />
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Loading the film is automatic, just make sure the leader reaches the orange line, and the whole film transport is motorised. The unit uses a 2CR5 battery, which will last ok as long as you don't overuse the flash.<br />
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At the end you can set the camera to rewind the film so that the leader is still there which is useful if you do your own processing. (Set custom function 2, CM02, to '1')<br />
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But the best feature is the eye controlled focussing. Many of the more expensive Canon models at this time had this feature and surprisingly it actually works. In the viewfinder there are three boxes which, when you depress the shutter button halfway, will set the focus to the one you are looking at. Magic! It works better if you calibrate it first, the manual says it's accuracy improves over time. Most people dismiss this feature on the 50e because there are just three focus points (rather than the seven on the later Canon EOS 30). However the 50e has another trick that the 30 can't do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKRDno0_bIJFpp6e5tqpVd_4Mlprn1UvNVX7PnFWvzqpYhqMTtjuFcrvUJ3ovKalD4C5Z9FcDkqi13KSdL8svfh5uP1O6nraRsg0s61zoygxs3j78jKHYMp3vdInuKyQdk57MmBv9nl0/s1600/popular+photography+aug+1996.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKRDno0_bIJFpp6e5tqpVd_4Mlprn1UvNVX7PnFWvzqpYhqMTtjuFcrvUJ3ovKalD4C5Z9FcDkqi13KSdL8svfh5uP1O6nraRsg0s61zoygxs3j78jKHYMp3vdInuKyQdk57MmBv9nl0/s200/popular+photography+aug+1996.tiff" width="200" /></a>After you've chosen the focus point, keep the shutter button half depressed and look at the small rhombus in the top left of the viewfinder. This engages the depth of field preview. I can't think of how many times i've never bothered to check this before taking a shot, this feature makes it second nature.<br />
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And remember...over 400 pounds in 1996. <span style="font-size: x-small;">($=<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;">£, 1:1 in the nineties)</span></span><br />
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<b>Worst feature</b> - Short battery life with flash (just 18 rolls!)<br />
<b>Best feature</b> - Eye Controlled DoF preview.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rowenta Street, Bolton - Taken using a Canon EOS 50e with Tamaron 55-200mm lens. Feb 2013<br />
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<br />ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-81304370223262848622013-03-05T16:52:00.002-08:002013-03-09T18:49:10.364-08:00Guide - Develop B&W film at homeIf you can bake a cake, then you can develop your own film. It's nothing like as complicated as most people think and you can expect to get excellent results first time. You just need to follow each step carefully.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxlrLOlH1jAUCs4UX4S-8cvnP8pZuAV3nyubG48HH5ZlEgpVrUb66YM1zxZLPw_L-Oqecd4wjv2MfyNbxPa9zaoASuh4V8-RGyUhOw2nm6lo8YPC97Sr2t8nIiFeFMd1Kces6jXMhlts/s1600/Scan2400031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxlrLOlH1jAUCs4UX4S-8cvnP8pZuAV3nyubG48HH5ZlEgpVrUb66YM1zxZLPw_L-Oqecd4wjv2MfyNbxPa9zaoASuh4V8-RGyUhOw2nm6lo8YPC97Sr2t8nIiFeFMd1Kces6jXMhlts/s1600/Scan2400031.jpg" /></a>This guide is based on developing <b>Ilford FP4 Plus</b> film which is ISO125. Different film speeds require slightly different conditions, but it's all pretty much the same thing. FP4 Plus is one of the most common films available and can be very forgiving if you get things wrong. Firstly though, you'll need to buy a few things to get started.<br />
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<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid5U6H4gIhIX2lmifT1ARnZHEypNWFh2KNlnd3Spp8lUgwX5RYKQHskV1njT49QLn9HJir9vIoVnTq7dlR3Gfn1zXhOpP0jqM8E8LvNZIOhc19l3RsgPD4rZE0TDEDqRSUbTUC42WQSHE/s1600/IMG_2336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid5U6H4gIhIX2lmifT1ARnZHEypNWFh2KNlnd3Spp8lUgwX5RYKQHskV1njT49QLn9HJir9vIoVnTq7dlR3Gfn1zXhOpP0jqM8E8LvNZIOhc19l3RsgPD4rZE0TDEDqRSUbTUC42WQSHE/s320/IMG_2336.JPG" width="320" /></a><u>B&W developing chemicals</u><br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3</span> (Ilford)</li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">Ilfostop</span></span> (Ilford)</li>
<li><span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer</span> (Ilford)</li>
<li>Rinse Aid (Fotospeed RA50)</li>
</ul>
All these are easily available online. The Rinse Aid isn't essential, but you'll not have to buy it often. Altogether you can expect to pay about 30 pounds for all this.<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;">REMEMBER - Although not highly toxic, you should avoid contact of the chemicals with your skin. I always wear latex gloves though out the whole process. This will also help keep the smell of the chemicals off your skin, and your finger prints off the film.</span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlnlKGBXKHXB3itGmDrxXjEvrULqT4sSTsWYY5k2Zxe6naAC4OTwm3oPl3z8vkv-faM7GMMQFPYmh6GeVNUGDjUdf5N3VcQT-wAmxi5PODv0vAHEKQxYMbEZAjgSQfDXHTxzHfVsYiKAE/s1600/IMG_2338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlnlKGBXKHXB3itGmDrxXjEvrULqT4sSTsWYY5k2Zxe6naAC4OTwm3oPl3z8vkv-faM7GMMQFPYmh6GeVNUGDjUdf5N3VcQT-wAmxi5PODv0vAHEKQxYMbEZAjgSQfDXHTxzHfVsYiKAE/s320/IMG_2338.JPG" width="320" /></a>Also , you'll need some <u>basic equipment</u>.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Developing tank ('Patterson' type)</li>
<li>Thermometer (which measures down to 20degC)</li>
<li>Measuring cylinder (100ml)</li>
<li>Bottle opener</li>
</ul>
<br />
I'd recommend trying to pick this lot up on ebay. There's a good chance you can get it all in one lot with maybe other stuff thrown in. It'll maybe cost ten pounds for this lot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjhkhcaApu7G9TSJ87CBAZO4Icc6-vKi6KxoPVfkjeXpxP9MnoQS94BFUk3ASdEwTAVkSeMeOOsyMjIZkLxrxgrS9ygyLyFOcx87cXnvcZvXQDutzKIHad7MXG9RXdKkxnYZMebk1hIk/s1600/IMG_2337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjhkhcaApu7G9TSJ87CBAZO4Icc6-vKi6KxoPVfkjeXpxP9MnoQS94BFUk3ASdEwTAVkSeMeOOsyMjIZkLxrxgrS9ygyLyFOcx87cXnvcZvXQDutzKIHad7MXG9RXdKkxnYZMebk1hIk/s320/IMG_2337.JPG" width="320" /></a>Although not essential, some other things you can pick up to make your life easier are,<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Measuring jug (two or three really cheap ones)</li>
<li>Containers for chemicals</li>
<li>Film squeegee</li>
<li>Funnel</li>
<li>Clock (with second hand)</li>
<li>Paper clips</li>
<li>Latex gloves</li>
<li>Hairdryer</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8Ss_8BaIsrpgVdgk0aX2uUddAAgj56WT2_V45t3aNEZfEz0hBS4G7MX5y-vQPNyWhFr1Zp85-NFsMgIEwIHX-dlOvBLlOEeLtw5bNgKjGdduhQXdQ8iK5DVRpc4UmT_oaC_ETrZak-U/s1600/IMG_2348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8Ss_8BaIsrpgVdgk0aX2uUddAAgj56WT2_V45t3aNEZfEz0hBS4G7MX5y-vQPNyWhFr1Zp85-NFsMgIEwIHX-dlOvBLlOEeLtw5bNgKjGdduhQXdQ8iK5DVRpc4UmT_oaC_ETrZak-U/s200/IMG_2348.jpg" width="110" /></a></div>
TIP - Don't pay several pounds for special containers for the chemicals. I bought mine from Tescos for 29p and just threw the bleach away and washed them out several times using warm water.<br />
<br />
The other items you can get for pence at a supermarket too, it's just the Film squeegee which you'll need to look around for. The shop you buy the chemicals from will likely have them, also ebay too. Expect to pay around ten pounds for a pair.<br />
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Once you've gathered it all together you're ready to start.<br />
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<br />
<u><b>Step 1 - Mix the chemicals</b></u><br />
<br />
The developing chemicals are sold in a concentrated form and you need to dilute them carefully for use. You can use tap water to do this and the ratio to use is on the front label. However things like 4:1 aren't too helpful really, so firstly take a look at your developing tank and turn it over. You should see something like this. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OxbftFZ0Ylcc57xL5ingK1NORInwnV05h07T77FUrKnyW3UW0raCTrZvqBLQ8fwjUtUY_0pbxeuH3M_a5mFu6VeWyf3gnFcQWLjSgxA0_ow_6AkTZMDdmBVPv6QHhR77Ni9ExalA8Sk/s1600/IMG_2351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OxbftFZ0Ylcc57xL5ingK1NORInwnV05h07T77FUrKnyW3UW0raCTrZvqBLQ8fwjUtUY_0pbxeuH3M_a5mFu6VeWyf3gnFcQWLjSgxA0_ow_6AkTZMDdmBVPv6QHhR77Ni9ExalA8Sk/s320/IMG_2351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Mine tells me I need 375ml/cc of fluid to cover one roll of 35mm film or 650ml/cc to cover two.<br />
<br />
Ignore all the other numbers, they're for different film formats.<br />
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To start with just work on developing one film at a time. <br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
So, for 375ml of <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3</span> (1:9) I need,<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>38ml of <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3 </span>(1 part) to 337ml of water (9parts) to give 1:9. Mix this up and leave it in a measuring jug.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
For the <span style="color: blue;">Ilfostop </span>(1:19) and <span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer </span>(1:4)<span style="color: lime;"> </span>you need to be a bit more generous and mix more than you need. This is because, unlike the <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3</span>, you can use them more than once. Because a little is lost each time, I mix,<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>25ml of <span style="color: blue;">Ilfostop</span> to 475ml of water. Put this into a chemical container, label it <span style="color: blue;">Ilfostop</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<ul>
<li>100ml of <span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer</span> to 400ml of water. Put this into a chemical container, label it <span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
The Rinse Aid is optional really, but its worth using. Just put 3ml into 500ml of water, the concentration of this one is less important. Again, put it into a container and label it.<br />
<br />
Keep all the chemicals at room temperature. They don't work too well if they're cold.<br />
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TIP. Because you use the <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3</span> only once, first get the temperature of the water to around 25degC using your mixer tap first so that it's ready to use.<br />
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<br />
<u><b>Step 2 - Get the film into the developing tank</b></u><br />
<br />
This step you HAVE to do in the dark. And I mean <b>totally</b> dark!<br />
<br />
I know some people just do this part in a plastic bag under a load of bed sheets, but I do this in the garage at night. Whatever works really. Either way you'll need to practice some of this in daylight first on an old negative strip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie3Hw9hqecCmhz6Eg8rYB4hDVP2D57Bn-VZx6UnmQMME6FM7S6sFxLC8EEbQSWEUj81xv9SsRLI0bpVzLbPtD06Nsx8aeHve84JxsHbR3cBr6BU2BkOumwgOhLjFwWmkRRZYrTn_8i2oM/s1600/Photo+2+(8).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie3Hw9hqecCmhz6Eg8rYB4hDVP2D57Bn-VZx6UnmQMME6FM7S6sFxLC8EEbQSWEUj81xv9SsRLI0bpVzLbPtD06Nsx8aeHve84JxsHbR3cBr6BU2BkOumwgOhLjFwWmkRRZYrTn_8i2oM/s1600/Photo+2+(8).jpg" /></a><br />
Once you're ready, use the bottle opener to prize the lid off the film can. Work on the end which does not have the spool protruding.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWjpEHjCxYOgjxPOvDc0kxNRJN_ErTZ-hv6Flm884088k2bQTMj0_nBlCy1ttWt7QLoVwwbLcLmPlXHVv_Xk8ARzJNCfinFOFwl-KuSaixCesSRS2QNs7VtwWfcKnu2IR4MXPq2rl2Og/s1600/Photo+2+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWjpEHjCxYOgjxPOvDc0kxNRJN_ErTZ-hv6Flm884088k2bQTMj0_nBlCy1ttWt7QLoVwwbLcLmPlXHVv_Xk8ARzJNCfinFOFwl-KuSaixCesSRS2QNs7VtwWfcKnu2IR4MXPq2rl2Og/s1600/Photo+2+%25286%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
Slide the spool out, take a pair of scissors and cut off the leading edge.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNIlThmrUhGYVOwfMWHqiUK4H1DGK8T9Ag6Sfkm6bDU7GzQ5HCyJ3xxlCwWpX7efjpcc9jTDlGYIrA3YnI7YxhOSce5M522-kboi63Uc_fLIVNqFOGuTmudaV32GW440Ow9x4u3nx25c/s1600/Photo+2+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNIlThmrUhGYVOwfMWHqiUK4H1DGK8T9Ag6Sfkm6bDU7GzQ5HCyJ3xxlCwWpX7efjpcc9jTDlGYIrA3YnI7YxhOSce5M522-kboi63Uc_fLIVNqFOGuTmudaV32GW440Ow9x4u3nx25c/s1600/Photo+2+%25287%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
Now load the leading edge of the film on to the spool so that when you twist one side whilst keeping the other still, the film loads on to the spool. A few times I've had pull the film off the spool and start again because it got jammed, but be patient and don't panic.<br />
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<br />
<br />
Once loaded, get the spool onto the spindle and into the tank, screw on the lid and you're done. You can now turn on the light.<br />
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<br />
<u><b>Step 3 - Develop the film</b></u><br />
<u><b><br /></b></u>
Timing is everything in this step. But because you now have the film in a light sealed Developing Tank, you can do all this in normal light.<br />
<br />
Development times depend upon two things. ISO and temperature. As everything in this guide is based on Ilford FP4 Plus, we can ignore ISO (see <a href="http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20114271219521241.pdf" target="_blank">here</a> for other films from Ilford). This leaves temperature, the higher this is, the faster our development time.<br />
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Most critical is the temperature of the <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3.</span> If you can keep this at 25degC, then it needs just <b>2mins 50secs</b> to develop the film properly. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkqlQPmjRJBm3L_BOAYehmdY54tbnIKmlc28_YvvIxmgIXvzib8dj_i0uv2yxYsi1jNvMjNMytG-tR02uqJzchi9KE0UyR6MHlZrWJB4OfkLdoD_8K5PVGFHO_bMvda0lgpOoAO3ZesU/s1600/IMG_2417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkqlQPmjRJBm3L_BOAYehmdY54tbnIKmlc28_YvvIxmgIXvzib8dj_i0uv2yxYsi1jNvMjNMytG-tR02uqJzchi9KE0UyR6MHlZrWJB4OfkLdoD_8K5PVGFHO_bMvda0lgpOoAO3ZesU/s200/IMG_2417.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
So get your clock set up, add the <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3</span>, put the lid on the tank and invert it a couple of times. Then tap the base against the table to dislodge any bubbles on the film. <br />
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Each minute invert the tank four times before giving it a light tap again. Whilst you are waiting get the top off the<span style="color: blue;"> Ilfostop </span>for the next step.<br />
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At exactly <b>2mins 50secs</b>, pour out the tank into the sink and immediately add the <span style="color: blue;">Ilfostop</span>. This needs to be in the tank for just <b>10 seconds</b> or so. All the times from now on are not too critical, so invert the tank a few times then pour the<span style="color: blue;"> Ilfostop </span><u>back into its chemical container </u>using the funnel. You can re-use this several times.<br />
<u><b><br /></b></u>
Next pour in the <span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer</span>. This needs to be in the tank for <b>3 mins</b>. Remember to invert the tank four times after each minute. At the end pour the <span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer </span><u>back into its chemical container</u>. Again you can re-use this next time.<br />
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Now you just need to wash the tank out with water. I do this the following way.<br />
<ul>
<li>Fill with water, invert five times, pour away</li>
<li>Fill again with water, invert ten times, pour away</li>
<li>Fill for a final time with water, invert twenty times, pour away</li>
<li>Fill with the Rinse Aid, invert a few times, pour back into it's container for use again.</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6AKr6fKZ3b14ya9FK3XDz0z9S0u2v8sAAn_hJJ5pH64ri4E9s3GTlZc8xWPjYbzQnoHfaKpmohfdgKJiK7C4jr-_4rpGo_ej8OWRyc6ABZL0zPrthSW023NHAtT_Beklcxt6XMQaR-A/s1600/IMG_2418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6AKr6fKZ3b14ya9FK3XDz0z9S0u2v8sAAn_hJJ5pH64ri4E9s3GTlZc8xWPjYbzQnoHfaKpmohfdgKJiK7C4jr-_4rpGo_ej8OWRyc6ABZL0zPrthSW023NHAtT_Beklcxt6XMQaR-A/s200/IMG_2418.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Now you can open the tank and pull the film off the spool. If it all went well, you should have some images on the film!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg9yO96R-u9tJ6kd2s8NM8RIxo7pMOOje4wr0baN3yIpNMJuM9A44snwaGE3EtDwhYlDiyvNxBqaV8RohpWlyDkI8P9lNLKuLmfI89OxaNLp1-Yzvr1cP-SavJ105F80HZ_qdiQTm8WrE/s1600/IMG_2423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg9yO96R-u9tJ6kd2s8NM8RIxo7pMOOje4wr0baN3yIpNMJuM9A44snwaGE3EtDwhYlDiyvNxBqaV8RohpWlyDkI8P9lNLKuLmfI89OxaNLp1-Yzvr1cP-SavJ105F80HZ_qdiQTm8WrE/s200/IMG_2423.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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<br />
Now you need to hang it up using the clips and wipe it down with the squeegee. Try to get as much water off the film as you can. Then I cheat a little and use a hair dryer to quickly dry the film whilst holding it straight.<br />
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Once dry, cut it up into strips of six negative images each, and scan it in!<br />
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<u><b><br /></b></u>
<b><u>Common problems</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXX-REq2C7DIbtCuXzsy2nLV0tGAWCwD0Owr8FbFrR_5C0Mj_CrNGZ0-aGZJs0p5EHedZ7un4OADevbNHZE_U-j90fCgVcAXRMSeXVf4GqiNb0z7Uu-1SsL-TVp3_m_76FPKksn03t3qQ/s1600/Develop+fail+-+rinse+aid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXX-REq2C7DIbtCuXzsy2nLV0tGAWCwD0Owr8FbFrR_5C0Mj_CrNGZ0-aGZJs0p5EHedZ7un4OADevbNHZE_U-j90fCgVcAXRMSeXVf4GqiNb0z7Uu-1SsL-TVp3_m_76FPKksn03t3qQ/s200/Develop+fail+-+rinse+aid.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<u>Negative marked by bubbles. </u><br />
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This is usually caused by residue from the Rinse Aid being left in the Developing Tank and causing the chemicals to foam during developing. There's nothing you can do to fix this once it's happened. <br />
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It's really important to wash everything you use before developing your next film.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgicveUu5TpgzuCFiGY5P8W8Q4XLPsJrMn2CFetE5Eu9xg8vVNKtO7mcVC9cucgtHB87e3CF4ejeMTlBhMGEORNU7wKnICDMyMFTFmzdmVWdhWThlkurVJuJyXRSqjS50zj-yGpzscluEY/s1600/Develop+fail+-+fingerprint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgicveUu5TpgzuCFiGY5P8W8Q4XLPsJrMn2CFetE5Eu9xg8vVNKtO7mcVC9cucgtHB87e3CF4ejeMTlBhMGEORNU7wKnICDMyMFTFmzdmVWdhWThlkurVJuJyXRSqjS50zj-yGpzscluEY/s200/Develop+fail+-+fingerprint.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<u>Regular lines or ripples on the image. </u><br />
<br />
Most likely caused by fingerprints on the negative. Depending upon when this happened there is a possibility you can carefully clean the negative to remove them.<br />
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If you wear gloves whilst doing the developing, it's a good idea to keep them on until you've scanned the film too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oRT93_-YsNHQLSXqUsyXkoWMI3h0ocqzjnClolvaaPcLVBvT3aGtOpdX3a77SjgXITymTEc56TKPawLYy1czy-NOX-zxZEsjJHpgqulQI68tb-qGbzPR6B21w5zKl0KP3_WNRyQ3Se8/s1600/Develop+fail+-+torn+neg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oRT93_-YsNHQLSXqUsyXkoWMI3h0ocqzjnClolvaaPcLVBvT3aGtOpdX3a77SjgXITymTEc56TKPawLYy1czy-NOX-zxZEsjJHpgqulQI68tb-qGbzPR6B21w5zKl0KP3_WNRyQ3Se8/s200/Develop+fail+-+torn+neg.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<u>Ripped negative</u><br />
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Sometimes the film can get caught in the spool and it tears. Although it might look ruined, sometimes you can actually scan the negative to get a respectable image. This is the advantage of digital scanning over making photographic prints. Your success will depend upon how much detail is in the image, where the tear is and how patient you are in photoshop.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_CAbQByAcluQFFhMc2qbnH9lzpcu19RH4w6Ru9Od2whCAq38NfyUyoUMGHZcPH5WrgwtwhfdPi2OOPG7zQoolpGF-XRR_72SCzbIhyQxKprsxHjxefQ2CodsU_HVs2Oz-OHXtd1bQZo/s1600/Develop+fail+-+expired+ilfosol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_CAbQByAcluQFFhMc2qbnH9lzpcu19RH4w6Ru9Od2whCAq38NfyUyoUMGHZcPH5WrgwtwhfdPi2OOPG7zQoolpGF-XRR_72SCzbIhyQxKprsxHjxefQ2CodsU_HVs2Oz-OHXtd1bQZo/s200/Develop+fail+-+expired+ilfosol.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<u>Blank negative</u><br />
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No photos at all? Just a clear film? This is a good sign that you added the <span style="color: lime;">Rapid Fixer</span> first. If you're sure you added the <span style="color: red;">Ilfosol 3</span> first, maybe it's our of date. Remember the chemicals have a fixed shelf life and once opened they oxidize. This type of thing typically happens when your chemicals are out of date. They last about four months once opened.<br />
If the<span style="color: red;"> Ilfosol 3</span> is a deep orange colour, it's oxidized and you need to throw it and buy fresh stock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTM7iSk1uN61LgWkdVRR6dq9E7yNZfUfxG8ztV8gdTOnex8CGla_BNuOvQ2FvuiLQys4WL6LKH83Z9crXdGl8M-E8GKQpyQCovoDmKQFyDfNDtQ8KxD4O_-nyLur1ztd_BHjtgNq-RGMk/s1600/Develop+fail+-+overexposed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTM7iSk1uN61LgWkdVRR6dq9E7yNZfUfxG8ztV8gdTOnex8CGla_BNuOvQ2FvuiLQys4WL6LKH83Z9crXdGl8M-E8GKQpyQCovoDmKQFyDfNDtQ8KxD4O_-nyLur1ztd_BHjtgNq-RGMk/s200/Develop+fail+-+overexposed.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<u>Black negative</u><br />
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If the negative it totally black the film was totally overexposed before you even started developing it. <br />
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<br />ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-61486115313320928992013-03-04T12:43:00.001-08:002013-03-10T09:45:59.738-07:00Review - Olympus OM10 35mm SLR<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVBBb_DzCxD92Ap5J6kWcxyBBQ_1-E4bO_PonMsrw7zZxhlJAUFtIaxXFzuX30h9JrHuQmclph9R2nPc8VHErABQxKqu9qXMiu-ZtEUkpXuKCObBYamUlKRT1fL-zEsDUgC_smanXiNEg/s1600/Photo+4+%25281%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVBBb_DzCxD92Ap5J6kWcxyBBQ_1-E4bO_PonMsrw7zZxhlJAUFtIaxXFzuX30h9JrHuQmclph9R2nPc8VHErABQxKqu9qXMiu-ZtEUkpXuKCObBYamUlKRT1fL-zEsDUgC_smanXiNEg/s320/Photo+4+%25281%2529.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
This camera is something of a classic. It was the entry level consumer 35mm SLR from Olympus which sold well in the 80's, meaning there are lots of them still around. You always have a choice on ebay, many of them being offered with more than one lens. But is it any good?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6FMWSOOk9-E4KzbBa6LfHUyxjJTRZq2PyQK6DMbET8meksbPlyl6LQa2UnHLE8ELbfcNSHrb8sMYs62bafPPrg0jF4a3MOjO7VtCTiF6a2hRSf4hJAo1d_8RMY4BZJf9iw2U_Hg7l3fY/s1600/80end054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6FMWSOOk9-E4KzbBa6LfHUyxjJTRZq2PyQK6DMbET8meksbPlyl6LQa2UnHLE8ELbfcNSHrb8sMYs62bafPPrg0jF4a3MOjO7VtCTiF6a2hRSf4hJAo1d_8RMY4BZJf9iw2U_Hg7l3fY/s200/80end054.jpg" width="150" /></a><br />
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For a basic SLR is has some nice features, TTL metering, auto-shutter speed setting and a very nice 50mm f1.8 lens as standard. The body is very sturdy being mostly of metal construction. And the lens is metal too, not like the plastic lenses which are common with modern DSLRs. Be careful you don't dent the edge as you'll never get a filter on it if you do.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzN85ORhWChBoPOJHReREtFMj_iHNipL5uaxoPs5XPvHrm7q61ZV-SAd2H5UTBtIaRaTXuwdlXqVvbv089ZijnbwXE6mWyVikouGg4gmo8SZgH93cYKtG_dHLUYatmsnhZYywaV1m15nE/s1600/Photo+4+%25284%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzN85ORhWChBoPOJHReREtFMj_iHNipL5uaxoPs5XPvHrm7q61ZV-SAd2H5UTBtIaRaTXuwdlXqVvbv089ZijnbwXE6mWyVikouGg4gmo8SZgH93cYKtG_dHLUYatmsnhZYywaV1m15nE/s200/Photo+4+%25284%2529.jpeg" width="200" /></a><br />
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Apart from the auto-shutter speed setting, everything else is manual. The TTL meter uses two LR44 cells which fit into the base of the body. You have to remember to turn the camera off when you're not using it. I have had mine drain batteries unnecessarily. Handily there is a 'battery check' function on the same dial which will beep and show a red light on the front if everything is ok. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWljNOP4p8x9lCsT2E_MEO191BisuM5KuQIDt86_vwRhPoUKYHyYo_H0dE-0Dek6dJik2G-r-cSd4_1FbPBy3P9z77M3XJYjokmB01-LhbkNKzWhBL2HH3Z4CzTle9JxwMH-UpCSxb3w/s1600/Photo+4+%25285%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWljNOP4p8x9lCsT2E_MEO191BisuM5KuQIDt86_vwRhPoUKYHyYo_H0dE-0Dek6dJik2G-r-cSd4_1FbPBy3P9z77M3XJYjokmB01-LhbkNKzWhBL2HH3Z4CzTle9JxwMH-UpCSxb3w/s200/Photo+4+%25285%2529.jpeg" width="200" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Disappointingly, there is no manual shutter speed setting as standard. Olympus asked you to buy the optional 'Manual Adaptor' for this. If you're looking to pick an OM10 up, try to find one with this included as they're not so easy to find.</div>
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In use, it's great. Aim, focus and then adjust the aperture whilst keeping an eye on the chosen shutter speed in the viewfinder, shown by a red LED next to a scale. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE0yWbVLal3KPCvPe53lN1m0rAGAVzSmlchYsiUWEwE3M4sheQHLTUmFG2KVhFI9Au_wzyIbJsWT1f3FyGkKbY2dMfmk52FTGOAkPO9ZWmNWY2kP76ZNXmgsTeRHcP-N2rvJL9hdTJncQ/s1600/Photo+4+%25283%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE0yWbVLal3KPCvPe53lN1m0rAGAVzSmlchYsiUWEwE3M4sheQHLTUmFG2KVhFI9Au_wzyIbJsWT1f3FyGkKbY2dMfmk52FTGOAkPO9ZWmNWY2kP76ZNXmgsTeRHcP-N2rvJL9hdTJncQ/s200/Photo+4+%25283%2529.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The standard 50mm lens is really good, but some third party lenses can give noticeably softer images at the edges, especially when used with wide apertures. If you only occasionally need a 28mm wide angle lens, then the cheap Vivitar is fine, otherwise look for an Olympus one. </div>
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If you're looking for a cheap film SLR to experiment with, it's a great choice. If you really want to shoot film all the time, then there are more modern film SLRs out there for just a few pounds more.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASdF_K86cKn6FNgE-U6G_BbIHLF86HZ0AGE03odFfBPEecJ4DrRXsg4u0_nvhP5y55Q9vcpjF1VcyN0qT0i5HCaCSCBTWLVcKy2fSrIvBZgit8zyFyE5CfC3w3DIUNQsIo5rV-SKl17c/s1600/8469574460_c388eedbb6_c.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASdF_K86cKn6FNgE-U6G_BbIHLF86HZ0AGE03odFfBPEecJ4DrRXsg4u0_nvhP5y55Q9vcpjF1VcyN0qT0i5HCaCSCBTWLVcKy2fSrIvBZgit8zyFyE5CfC3w3DIUNQsIo5rV-SKl17c/s400/8469574460_c388eedbb6_c.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Telephone Box - Taken in London using an Olympus OM10<br />
with Vivitar 28mm lens. Jan 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Worst feature</b> - No Manual Adaptor, No access to the shutter speed. And there's no window on the back to see which film you have loaded :-(</div>
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<b>Best feature</b> - It looks very cool and retro.<br />
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Specifications <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus_OM-10" target="_blank">here</a><br />
Manual <a href="http://downloads.fotosource.com/public/camera_manuals/Olympus/35mm/OM10.pdf" target="_blank">here</a></div>
ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-1447261741204366192013-03-03T13:46:00.001-08:002013-03-07T15:50:00.265-08:00Photos - Flickr photostream<div style="margin: 0; overflow: hidden; padding: 0; width: 500px;">
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/8521702911/in/photostream/" style="display: block; float: left; height: 75px; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px;" title="Peel building, Salford University"><img alt="Peel building, Salford University" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8521702911_5152d1d191_s.jpg" style="border: none; height: 75px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px;" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/8522810420/in/photostream/" style="display: block; float: left; height: 75px; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px;" title="Road signs leading into Salford Cresent"><img alt="Road signs leading into Salford Cresent" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8522810420_340f3e4750_s.jpg" style="border: none; height: 75px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px;" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/8522818042/in/photostream/" style="display: block; float: left; height: 75px; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px;" title="Minut Men (William Mitchell) outside Salford Tech"><img alt="Minut Men (William Mitchell) outside Salford Tech" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8522818042_dc79053fc2_s.jpg" style="border: none; height: 75px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px;" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/8521697897/in/photostream/" style="display: block; float: left; height: 75px; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px;" title="Minut Men (William Mitchell) outside Salford Tech"><img alt="Minut Men (William Mitchell) outside Salford Tech" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8521697897_03efdb212d_s.jpg" style="border: none; height: 75px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px;" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/8522803122/in/photostream/" style="display: block; float: left; height: 75px; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px;" title="Bridge marker"><img alt="Bridge marker" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8522803122_e7bd2da959_s.jpg" style="border: none; height: 75px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px;" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/8521692149/in/photostream/" style="display: block; float: left; height: 75px; padding: 0 0 10px 0; width: 75px;" title="Grass"><img alt="Grass" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8521692149_70a1cf5f6a_s.jpg" style="border: none; height: 75px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px;" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilovetoxicwaste/">Ilovetoxicwaste's photostream</a> on Flickr.</div>
ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-12773058109407004382013-03-03T10:12:00.001-08:002013-03-03T13:45:44.285-08:00Review - Lomo ActionSampler (uboot)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bUxU81GSUfzPjlrhx3rYMzDrobHFp_NY93UxKa0i7iaGiGqLXfzvQcEtcmv4SBxeItpEDJv1L87OKUnaZUDZfrX3TZ1KJeJxz3xSy1rf05tHKMTnyoGq0S-KXQOpEUHbdYcZedIPJ48/s1600/Photo+2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bUxU81GSUfzPjlrhx3rYMzDrobHFp_NY93UxKa0i7iaGiGqLXfzvQcEtcmv4SBxeItpEDJv1L87OKUnaZUDZfrX3TZ1KJeJxz3xSy1rf05tHKMTnyoGq0S-KXQOpEUHbdYcZedIPJ48/s320/Photo+2.jpeg" width="320" /></a>There are several different types of this camera in existence, but they're all pretty much the same design mostly just different colours. The camera has four lenses and takes four photos at a time on a standard 35mm film frame. The whole thing is made of cheap plastic, including the lenses, but this means it's inexpensive and fun to play around with.<br />
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There are no dials, no ISO or shutter speed setting, nothing. The 'viewfinder' is pretty much useless too. So just point it at something and press the shutter. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOjJUdNiYGuYWQLfh4tZcEYX0QXTvxxLVFnuYNLGDY7ppXApdaNYfkkXy_Hlig2TlYZfW1uyBQwzVOt46AHtUQjolj8YImTtfS3YKyw8zBvzlXu8SbAJgpS73vLA-VM75ZFnMFXSEf3I/s1600/Photo+2+%25282%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOjJUdNiYGuYWQLfh4tZcEYX0QXTvxxLVFnuYNLGDY7ppXApdaNYfkkXy_Hlig2TlYZfW1uyBQwzVOt46AHtUQjolj8YImTtfS3YKyw8zBvzlXu8SbAJgpS73vLA-VM75ZFnMFXSEf3I/s200/Photo+2+%25282%2529.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>
Winding on the film to the next frame primes the shutter for the next shot, so don't think yours is broken if it doesn't work without any film loaded. Loading the film is easy and so long as it's not your first 35mm camera, you won't need any instructions to get started. The release button to rewind the film is on the bottom of the camera.<br />
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The shutter is set at 1/100sec, so really it needs bright sunlight and/or fast film (ISO 400) to get the best results. That said, I've used it indoors with ISO125 and managed to develop images. Film can be very forgiving. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSHbN7iAVtRnTGEPMVoPscbMU1myvXMHefcrC0mUEunkKpC160nROuIapZ3xA-urKV2TRw_r20rH9fA2uyM3lo4D1-RF0QkuDBaayegHjsLYeutCKYGygPVLiNIZ9nZtmNNr2t1k88X0/s1600/8502026302_3e1bb490a0.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSHbN7iAVtRnTGEPMVoPscbMU1myvXMHefcrC0mUEunkKpC160nROuIapZ3xA-urKV2TRw_r20rH9fA2uyM3lo4D1-RF0QkuDBaayegHjsLYeutCKYGygPVLiNIZ9nZtmNNr2t1k88X0/s320/8502026302_3e1bb490a0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My son Brandon - Taken in Manchester last week</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There's about a 0.22 second gap between each frame. And as the name suggests, the idea is to shoot moving objects or move the camera whilst firing the shutter. If you get this right then you can get some interesting effects.<br />
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This model is the 'uboot' edition which you see often on ebay. They're actually around 15 years old and were manufactured to launch a website which tried to pioneer digital imaging in an era before digital cameras (Sony Mavica et al excepted). The idea was that you sent your 35mm film to them for processing and they put the images on the internet for you, rather than sending prints in the post. To promote the service, this camera was given away free, with a roll of film. In fact I even think that your first processing was free too. Sadly the internet back then was nothing like it is now and the idea never took off. Remember that everyone was using a normal phone line to get online, paying 1p/min on a 64k modem....ouch, painful!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2c7EZEwrX1vv-dD4fufWVbQasUalytVHCRoTg3j7j02BfyqBDHWg3gyHIAelcYqdXnd3ND4libczW8w31PzAhHYjGyz3OzTxdlryZRmVPIaLUjF2tnm64sl6LSnCR4eFCwApqIa29yA0/s1600/Brandon+lomo.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2c7EZEwrX1vv-dD4fufWVbQasUalytVHCRoTg3j7j02BfyqBDHWg3gyHIAelcYqdXnd3ND4libczW8w31PzAhHYjGyz3OzTxdlryZRmVPIaLUjF2tnm64sl6LSnCR4eFCwApqIa29yA0/s1600/Brandon+lomo.gif" /></a></div>
You can even cut your digitized image up in MSPaint and create a GIF using an <a href="http://picasion.com/" target="_blank">online converter</a>. Four frames can be quite effective if you get it right.</div>
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<b>Worst feature</b> - Total unpredictability of results<br />
<b>Best feature</b> - Probably the same</div>
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You can find more pictures <a href="http://flic.kr/s/aHsjE6Bcxg" target="_blank">here</a></div>
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<a href="http://ilovetoxicwaste%20on%20flickr/" target="_blank">visit ilovetoxicwaste on Flickr</a></div>
ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8822215980189360928.post-64286871868405934762013-03-03T09:13:00.002-08:002013-03-09T14:44:37.734-08:00Review - Fuji STX-2 35mm SLR<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKSrLI2K8Lx44cShLXmbfm3Hu1-FCNkSTKUd6lQNVud8fZG9OeO1OVT9pn-jXj4G-j17vgrmuXz09qZtWgaLaqYQoUS8q9nVJt1FzmkRGzQXbxBhJm8usPdf-2vPNK2t_5YCN-1WCEIRM/s1600/Photo+3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKSrLI2K8Lx44cShLXmbfm3Hu1-FCNkSTKUd6lQNVud8fZG9OeO1OVT9pn-jXj4G-j17vgrmuXz09qZtWgaLaqYQoUS8q9nVJt1FzmkRGzQXbxBhJm8usPdf-2vPNK2t_5YCN-1WCEIRM/s320/Photo+3.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
My first review has to be on my first SLR camera, the Fuji STX-2. Bought for me as a Christmas present from my Mum when I was 16, I think it was 99 pounds from Boots. This is what I learnt photography on, trying all sorts of experiments with long shutter times and depth of field. I once even used insulation tape to mount the lens backwards for some macro work. Amazingly it worked.<br />
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It's the most basic 35mm SLR you could imagine. No auto features, <u>everything</u> has to be set manually. Which means you have to learn the basics of photography to be able to use it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZk2tg8INeP51lV9rX_A9jlWux2iMhogZh_CEhE5bu5JImC6DOSIn88rLIlhHcvlX2rI0-YgF915_wE1Zmqdg75h3Kg-THl9k85hkC2enbi-5EP1-bJuUJViR5Ju9VFBatTHhUX30kYEY/s1600/Photo+4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZk2tg8INeP51lV9rX_A9jlWux2iMhogZh_CEhE5bu5JImC6DOSIn88rLIlhHcvlX2rI0-YgF915_wE1Zmqdg75h3Kg-THl9k85hkC2enbi-5EP1-bJuUJViR5Ju9VFBatTHhUX30kYEY/s200/Photo+4.jpeg" width="200" /></a>On the plus side, it does have TTL metering which works really well. There are three LED lights in the viewfinder labelled + o - which allow you to change the aperture and shutter speed until you get a green light.<br />
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The focussing screen is of the typical split grating type which means that a straight vertical line will be split into two until you get it into focus. Still the easiest way to manually focus a camera. <br />
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It came with a 50mm f1.9 lens which used Fuji's own 'Fujica X-mount' (not to be confused with the 'Fujifilm X-mount' for new digital cameras). This is a pain, because finding lenses to fit the camera can be tough. In fact I've only ever owned the 50mm lens, although more because I couldn't afford a second lens rather than find one. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic2ueygp2zBg_8jmH2XsUHB63Hd_Y5Gz14I3UDtHNAH_SFhKXkAttJd8diZqi-WSE8HmRl0KVXxRMUiDGhyphenhyphenl5YrCyuwWeiNAaFvsUwz77kT20ksN9BketZeEGpO6rleFz8_jtqWavowSs/s1600/Photo+3+(1).jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic2ueygp2zBg_8jmH2XsUHB63Hd_Y5Gz14I3UDtHNAH_SFhKXkAttJd8diZqi-WSE8HmRl0KVXxRMUiDGhyphenhyphenl5YrCyuwWeiNAaFvsUwz77kT20ksN9BketZeEGpO6rleFz8_jtqWavowSs/s320/Photo+3+(1).jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
The aperture setting is on a ring behind the focussing ring and the shutter speed dial is on the top of the camera. Because of this, the way you end up using the camera is to select a shutter speed (1/60 or above without a tripod, 1/30 if you're very brave) and then compose your shot, adjusting the aperture ring with the left hand to get the correct exposure. Handily there is a depth of field button you can depress using your right hand to check your aperture setting is acceptable. Lots of people complain about this but I found it quite manageable.<br />
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It also has a mechanical self-timer and a lock for the shutter button. The meter runs from two LR44 button cells which last around 12months.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9Q7MQvK1c7HtqVDf03HbCaUyeRb7kaTSYgpDKUbEqArg_V62gmkSzj7-6BMmYwNomppnHHWvwgplFZpM8uwrYhIuUHbEYqefbr2fb9KfNGIrXJUrdchxs1_ezCP1g0mZHbJGkELnI5k/s1600/7-23-2011_016.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9Q7MQvK1c7HtqVDf03HbCaUyeRb7kaTSYgpDKUbEqArg_V62gmkSzj7-6BMmYwNomppnHHWvwgplFZpM8uwrYhIuUHbEYqefbr2fb9KfNGIrXJUrdchxs1_ezCP1g0mZHbJGkELnI5k/s400/7-23-2011_016.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Dad - Taken in Llandudno in 1989 using a Fuji STX-2 and<br />
Fujinon 50mm lens</td></tr>
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So, does it take good photos? Despite all the restrictions of no auto shutter-speed setting and just a 50mm lens, I've had excellent results from it. For many years it was my only proper camera and I learnt to live with it, stepping back to frame my shots and taking care to set each one up correctly. It's a very well built camera, most of the parts are metal, and it feels more solid than my Olympus OM10 which was a much more expensive camera back in 1988.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaDuzkO7Eh1UVwzjS9MsvvIAl_yAoZMO-LGRgK6lnyg8-meZoSDumaMMiYzuAo9BBlPxbq9KvkV2OYn_aVL-RRwaTMD972gze8RTXjIkAerwpwXAUqDiWPyy5hafDa9oyi3irvjHDojnc/s1600/8521734445_9836c0a892_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaDuzkO7Eh1UVwzjS9MsvvIAl_yAoZMO-LGRgK6lnyg8-meZoSDumaMMiYzuAo9BBlPxbq9KvkV2OYn_aVL-RRwaTMD972gze8RTXjIkAerwpwXAUqDiWPyy5hafDa9oyi3irvjHDojnc/s400/8521734445_9836c0a892_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building in Manchester - Taken yesterday using a Fuji STX-2<br />
and Fujinon 50mm lens</td></tr>
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<b>Worst feature</b> - The X-mount system is really limiting, although I'm sure there are ways around it.<br />
<b>Best feature</b> - The viewfinder is the excellent. I've yet to see a DSLR with one so large and clear.<br />
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Specifications <a href="http://www.pentax-manuals.com/fujica/cameras/stx2.htm" target="_blank">here</a><br />
Manual <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/fujica/fujica_stx-2/fujica_stx-2.htm" target="_blank">here</a><br />
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<a href="http://ilovetoxicwaste%20on%20flickr/" target="_blank">visit ilovetoxicwaste on Flickr</a><br />
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ilovetoxicwastehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00905735040823125107noreply@blogger.com2